On April 5th, 2023, we embarked on an unforgettable journey to Sardinia. Prepared and determined, we set off with our Dirty Panda, equipped with a new shower hose for our home on wheels. As the sun dipped below the horizon, we waved goodbye to our feline companions and hit the highway towards Gallen, following Rhine upstream. The weather was chilly and uninviting for outdoor cooking, so we stopped in Chur for a quick meal before tackling the San Bernardino passage, opting for the tunnel as fatigue set in. The decision to drive over the hill or through the mountain tunnel was easy, given the winter conditions. We parked next to the cable car, turned on the heating, watched a travel vlog from fellow Defender owners and settled in for the night, cozy inside the car while the temperatures outside plummeted. This adventure marked our first extensive trip with the Dirty Panda, a testament to our preparation and dedication. Before this, we had only taken short test drives to ensure everything was in working order. Our previous experiences involved brief excursions to test our equipment or visits to events like the Abenteuer & Allrad in Germany. Our other Defender, the Dark Zebra, which lacked a rooftop tent, was parked at home after we sold it earlier in the year.
The next morning, we woke up to the sound of a helicopter picking up gear for a chairlift they were building in the mountains—got us out of bed! We figured we’d drive south first and shower later since it was still a chilly -5 degrees outside. Without wasting any time, we popped down the roof and hit the winding highway down to beautiful Ticino. After a smooth drive, we exited in Melide, followed the main road to Maroggia, and took the narrow road up to Italy, landing at the amazing "Balcone d'Italia" with stunning views of Lake Lugano and the mountains. Just as we were enjoying breakfast in the car, an army green helicopter flew by, with the border patrol checking out what we were up to on a Wednesday! From Argegno, we hit the sunny coastal road toward Como and onto the southbound, feeling the excitement of the journey ahead! We made a quick stop at a service for a delicious Italian panini and a rich espresso—perfect fuel for adventure. With the sun shining and the temperatures still a bit chilly, we zoomed past Milano and Pavia, heading down to Genova along the stunning coastal autostrada toward Livorno. In La Spezia, we couldn’t resist a shopping spree, stocking up on goodies for the next few days to keep our independence alive! Arriving early, we whipped up dinner in the Dunes of Tirrenia by the coast. But, oops! I accidentally knocked over a bottle of fish oil someone had left in the parking lot, and suddenly the Dirty Panda was smelling like a seafood market on a hot day!
When we arrived to board the ferry, the ferry master wouldn't let us on because our tickets were not working. A few days before our trip, the ferry company contacted us to replace the tickets because the Defender we were travelling with didn't match the measurements of a "Smart" car. After some discussion at the counter, we were given the correct tickets and managed to board as one of the last cars. This turned out to be a good thing because the next morning we would be among the first to disembark. The ferry was poorly maintained and dirty, and the bar on the upper deck didn't offer a wide selection of drinks. We bought a glass of Italian wine and a Ramazotti and soon went to bed.
The next morning, we arrived in Olbia, and the island welcomed us with a brilliant blue sky and the sunshine we had been longing for over the last few months. Full of excitement, we journeyed southwest, following small dirt tracks until we discovered a secluded spot in the midst of nowhere. After a satisfying breakfast and completing our morning chores, we packed up and headed towards the "Fiumi Tirso". Near Sedilo, we paused to take some captivating pictures and soon realized that the lakeshore would make for an ideal wild camping spot. Engaging the low-range gearbox, we descended gently to the shore for a rejuvenating break. Flower often reminded us that we were driving every day and desired a holiday with less driving and more relaxation. The lake appeared serene and smooth as glass. We decided to stop for a few hours and later intended to use our pack rafts to explore the lake. Following a brief nap, we acknowledged that our lake exploration should have been done in the early morning, as the wind picked up. Nevertheless, we resolved to stay put, revel in the sunshine, and later prepare a delightful dinner.
The next morning, we were brimming with holiday excitement as we set off around eleven, heading southwest towards Terralba to refill our tanks with water and diesel. After gearing up, we drove to Giuspini and on a thrilling mountain road adventure to explore the abandoned mines, passing through Montevecchio via Arbus. Engaging the low-range gearbox, we navigated a winding path into the bushes, which led us to a dead end with a stunning view, albeit unsuitable for an overnight stay. We retraced our steps and followed the "Red River" route towards the sea, encountering several river crossings and overgrown bushes that left their mark on our car. Despite the scratches, they are part of the experience of driving a Defender. In the end, such souvenirs are a part of owning a Defender - however, not sure I would do the route in a "New Defender", which seems still a little too shiny for such a treatment. Upon reaching the dunes, we parked and took a walk on the sandy shore. Despite the cold and windy weather, the sun was shining. After a few invigorating kilometres, we made our way back to the car, opting to seek a more secluded camping spot along the coastal road. Not long after encountering a deep river crossing, we stumbled upon a rugged dirt track leading down to the shore. We first walked it, as it was a hairy, steep and bumpy track with many washouts. Though daunting with its steep and bumpy terrain, we couldn't resist the challenge, especially armed with our winch and sandboards. After careful deliberation, we courageously manoeuvred the track, ultimately arriving at a picturesque camping spot just 10 meters from the seashore. With an awe-inspiring sunset view and gentle winds, it quickly became one of our most cherished and iconic locations.
After a delightful dinner, we settled in to watch a movie. I savoured the rich aroma of English tobacco in my pipe, while we indulged in a fine single malt from the crystal bottle at the bar. As the last red stripes in the sky vanished, a cool breeze enveloped us, and the stars shone brighter than ever. It was a perfect time to call it a night. The next morning, the lively chatter of seagulls greeted us, likely discussing the freshest gossip about the nearby seafood. Opening the zipper revealed a breathtaking view of the ocean and the stunning cliffs and sandbanks nearby. This island truly is a hidden gem. We whipped up a delicious breakfast and basked in the warm sunshine, savouring every moment in this tranquil setting.
With our ferry departing the next day, we decided to head north towards Olbia rather than spend another night in this amazing spot. After packing our gear and capturing some final photos, we strategized the best approach to conquer the challenging dirt track ahead. With the differential locked, low range engaged, and cruising in 2nd gear, we carefully navigated our way back up to the road. We were relieved that we didn't require the sandboards or the winch, though we did pay a toll with a broken mudflap at the back. Many people wonder why I need a winch on my car. While it may not be frequently used, it allows us to venture to places we wouldn't dare without it. It's a tool that amplifies our appetite for adventure and makes daring decisions all the more enticing.
We drove along the coastal road heading north and couldn't resist stopping at the Gelateria in Bosa. Despite the bright blue sky, the wind was icy. We sat down on a bench, enjoyed some Italian desserts and then took a walk along the pier before continuing our journey north. The traffic in Alghero was not very pleasant, but after 45 minutes, we managed to navigate through the city and follow the coastline. I couldn't quite remember the way, so we got lost several times before finally finding our previous camping spot located on the cliffs of the seashore a little farther north. To reach it, we had to pass the camping area, drive through some rather deep mud puddles, and manoeuvre around some low-hanging trees. When we arrived, I found a Defender Mudflap. What a coincidence! Earlier that morning, we had lost our right mudflap, and now I found an identical one, but from the left side. I told Flower, and she laughed because we had also lost the left one, meaning I had just found my mudflap in the sand. We parked our mudflap-less Defender on the coastal cliff and prepared our camp.
We indulged in a delectable spread of antipasti paired with a robust red wine and freshly baked Italian white bread for our Apéro. Although the temperatures didn't quite allow us to shed our jackets, the warm sunshine made our time outdoors quite pleasant. We made plans to explore the Costa Smeralda the next day before catching the overnight ferry. After savouring a mouthwatering chicken sweet and sour, we efficiently cleaned up using the heat exchanger from the engine and then settled in to watch a breathtaking sunset before heading to bed.
The next morning, we woke up to the tranquil absence of seagull chatter and the sight of endless sandy shores. It was a reminder that we were in paradise for yet another day. At around 11:00, we geared up to explore the enchanting mangrove forests behind the dunes. Even the most daring Defender driver found the trees too low and the puddles too deep, so we had to stick to the "normal" dirt tracks to find our way back to the road. After a two-hour ride, we reached Olbia, passed through, and continued our journey northward. We found a perfect parking spot right by the emerald green sea, just a stone's throw away from an Italian family enjoying a lavish "Italian style" picnic. After a fulfilling lunch, Flower took a well-deserved nap while I ventured into the bay with the drone and the pack raft. Navigating the larger waves was a thrilling challenge compared to our usual river kayaking, and capturing breathtaking shots while operating the drone and raft simultaneously was an exhilarating experience. As I finally returned to the shores, Flower was still peacefully asleep, and I took the opportunity to rinse the raft with water and let it bask in the warm sunshine. By 18:00, we decided to head to a shopping mall for dinner, as we knew the ferry wouldn't offer anything satisfying. Although the mall's choices weren't perfect, we managed to find some pasta that satisfied our cravings without immediately attracting the seagulls.
After leaving the mall, we made our way to Olbia to catch the ferry with surprisingly minimal waiting time. Our cabin wasn't much better than the last time, but that didn't dampen our spirits. We decided to unwind with a drink at the bar, taking in the breathtaking sunset on the upper deck before retiring for the night. Upon arrival in Livorno, we were among the first cars to disembark, eager to hit the northbound highway. The chill in the air was a stark contrast to the warmth of the island. A pit stop at a gas station turned into a memorable roadside coffee brewing session on the Bialetti, much to the curiosity of the locals. With delicious panini with tomatoes and mozzarella in hand, we continued our journey north, refuelling in Parma and hitting the road again. In Switzerland, we opted for the San Bernardino route, steering clear of the Gotthard route's traffic jams and closures.
Arriving home at 17:30, we took a moment to reflect on our short trip to Sardinia. It's amazing how reachable the island is from Switzerland within a day and an overnight ferry. While the ferry prices aren't cheap, they do fall within a reasonable range compared to flight costs. Opting for the Defender was the right choice, given the island's numerous off-road tracks, beautiful camping spots, and breathtaking views. Sardinia - we're already looking forward to returning!
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