Rose whom I called Flower for endearment has successfully aced all her exams and graduated with cum laude honors! I couldn't be prouder of her incredible achievement. She put in so much hard work and dedication to earn her degree. Now, it's time for us to start a new adventure together! Feeling a bit tired but super excited, we left home just after 9 o'clock, heading down the eastern highway. This time, we're throwing caution to the wind - no set destination, no detailed plans.
As we traveled down memory lane, we passed through Vorarlberg and a former workplace of mine near Bludenz. We decided to leave the monotonous highway and ascend the Arlberg with our Dark Zebra. In Stuben, I began to feel the weight of my tiredness and exhaustion. We paused to enjoy a Bialetti coffee from the car's trunk, and I took a brief power nap before tackling the winding and adventurous ascent.
At around 3 PM, our exciting quest for the perfect camping spot began. This adventure usually unfolds in a familiar way. While our energy is high and the sun still shines bright, we aim for a remarkable location. As the day goes on, our expectations may decrease, leading us to settle for less-than-perfect spots. But hey, in those moments, we often stumble upon hidden gems that few have ever laid eyes on.
The temperatures were unusually high for June, and many tourists had congested the roads. Upon turning right in Imst to head towards Obergurgl and the renowned “Timmelsjoch,” we encountered a small motorcycle convoy making its way up the hills. Most participants appeared to be over 50, riding their vintage bikes as if they were still 16. This brought back memories of my own youthful adventures, recalling how I would traverse certain roads in my first car, feeling invigorated by the wind in my hair and reminiscing about the days when I would drive for 30 hours straight, deeming it “fun.”
We paid the toll at the mountain pass booth, received an attractive sticker, and proceeded to follow the white caravans that obstructed the road leading to the summit, where the remnants of snow served as a reminder to tourists that winter often lingers in that region. Due to the throngs of people occupying all available parking spaces, we opted not to stop and instead trailed a white hatchback, which emitted the scent of brake pads, down the increasingly narrow and winding road into Italy. As we descended, the temperature rose, and we began to experience a hint of the Mediterranean atmosphere.
In St. Leonard, we took on an incredible journey through the Jaufen Passage and stumbled upon the perfect parking spot at the “Romans-corner”. Maneuvering our way there with the low-range gearbox was a thrilling challenge that we conquered with finesse. As we reached the summit, we were greeted by a bustling scene of hikers' vehicles, inspiring us to capture breathtaking drone footage and stunning photographs. Our adventure continued with a refreshing drink and snack before conquering the final kilometer to the peak. The descent into the valley towards Sterzing was nothing short of exhilarating, passing by the Brenner highway and cruising along the second most monotonous road in Alto Adige towards Bruneck. Despite the lack of stopping points along the way, the picturesque valley landscape still managed to captivate us. Our quest for the perfect camping spot led us to the banks of the Rienz River near Nove Case. However, our plans took an unexpected turn when we stumbled upon a private shed, prompting us to respect the hiking trail and seek an alternative camping location. We retraced our route, passing Olanger Lake, known in Italian as Lago di Valdoara, and continued following the Rienz River further east until we located an ideal camping site right by the river. However, we noted that another Land Rover driver had also identified this spot, setting up camp along the riverbank adjacent to the bike trail. This vehicle was a purple Defender TD4, reminiscent of the one used by the two Pistenkuh travelers.
Defender Drivers represent a unique community, and I was mindful of not disturbing our neighbors. We opted to set up camp within the thick pine forest, right by the water's edge, where we could build a fire to prepare goulash in our Dutch oven. Once everything was arranged and we were savoring our appetizers, Pistenkuh shared their "home office" on Instagram. I felt compelled to comment and then approached Burkhart to greet him. We engaged in conversation for a while, during which they expressed interest in visiting our Defender. They shared insights about their nomadic lifestyle, detailing how Burkhart had grown up with limited resources and learned to source food for free from bakeries and other establishments, all while working diligently to create a sustainable lifestyle that allows them to travel.
Pistenkuh consists of two German travelers who have been writing travel guides for overlanders and off-road enthusiasts. They operate a large truck, affectionately named "Pistenkuh," and during the summer months, they drive a Defender TD4—both vehicles are painted purple, their preferred color, which is prominently displayed not only on their vehicles and book covers but also on their scarves, jackets, hats, and various other items. They were on a reconnaissance trip through the Balkan countries, gathering information for their upcoming book titled "Balkan," which we purchased a year later and used to explore the routes with great enthusiasm. During the pandemic, many YouTubers faced travel restrictions, leading to a sudden loss of income as content production ceased. However, through their books, they established a stable business model that enables them to maintain two vehicles and spend up to 300 days a year on the road.
As the evening progressed, Sabine retired early due to a cold, followed by Rose, while Burkhart and I enjoyed the remainder of the bottle of red wine he had provided. Our Zebra is typically stocked with food, water, beverages, and wine, but we had neglected to replenish our supplies on this trip.
The following morning, they departed early, honking their horn in farewell as we relished our breakfast. Subsequently, we decided to dismantle our camp and continue our journey eastward, overlooking the right turn in Doblach. We followed the Drau River, which we had previously seen featured in some kayaking videos by Steve (the Flusswanderer). The weather was sweltering, and while the Drau River presented a picturesque view from the water, the journey to Villach was rather monotonous. We opted for the Wurzenpass, renowned for being one of the steepest routes I have navigated. To maintain a reasonable speed during the ascent, we had to engage the low range gearbox. Upon reaching the other side, we found ourselves in Slovenia. Although we considered exploring the Kranjska Gora National Park, we ultimately decided against it and chose to return. Following the winding road through Mojstrana, we made the decision to take the highway and drive directly to Ljubljana. Without any breaks, we continued to a rather unkempt rest area in Grič, where we took a moment to recuperate from the heat before departing the highway to traverse the stunning forests of Slovenia, heading towards Delnice.
We managed to have a quick beach stop between Karlobag and Cesarica. To prevent any further awkwardness, we visited a local store where we purchased not only wine but also meat, water, tomatoes, mozzarella, and a new balsamic vinegar, which later transformed into a basil syrup. My familiarity with the region stems from previous visits, during which I camped multiple times at Jezero Omladinsko in Lokve. This year, however, we were not alone in our plans, as the lake was bustling with visitors, and the parking situation was such that we struggled to navigate through the area. Feeling somewhat disheartened, we departed from the lake vicinity and continued our journey until we came across an open gate leading into the forest. We ventured down the dirt track, which seemed endless, and after more than thirty minutes, we stumbled upon a clearing in the woods that provided an excellent camping spot. We established our campsite and were roused later by the cries of an animal meeting its demise at the jaws of a predator. We hoped that the Croatian forests were devoid of mythical creatures or bears and returned to slumber.
By morning, temperatures soared above 27 degrees, making travel in a black vehicle with an inadequately functioning air conditioning system less than ideal. With enthusiasm, we took the scenic route down to the coast, considering destinations such as Krk, Cres, or Rab, but ultimately chose to follow the coastline. As we navigated the winding road, renowned as one of the most picturesque coastal routes globally, we headed southeast. Fortunately, we found water at a gas station in Senj and continued our journey, passing through Karlobag and Starigrad. Fatigue set in as the heat became oppressive. The coastal campsites were fully booked, and the sun began to dip below the horizon.
Near Rovanjska, we discovered a flat, stony beach designated as the "dog beach," where numerous white campers congregated with their dogs to swim, stroll along the shore, or relax in front of their vehicles until the day came to a close, allowing them to return to their usual camping spots. We opted to remain, setting up our rooftop tent and capturing stunning photographs that cleverly omitted the other campers and the mess behind our car. With temperatures nearing 30 degrees, I found it unnecessary to start the engine for a shower, as I could simply use water from the side canister. Though we felt weary, there was a sense of joy in witnessing a prolonged and magnificent sunset right on the beach beneath our awning.
The following morning, we set out early and immediately headed to the renowned Winnetou film set, where the Native Americans are depicted standing atop the valley while Old Shatterhand attempts to navigate through. Nostalgia for my childhood film experiences prompted us to take the scenic route through the Hinterland en route to Trogir. The temperature soared above 35 degrees Celsius, rendering it difficult for me to function effectively. Along a small service road, we followed the coastline of Trogir and managed to park our vehicle in a Defender style on a steep incline adjacent to the shoreline. I immersed myself in the sea for two hours, relishing the coolness. Meanwhile, Flower occupied herself with a book, and we ultimately made a decisive choice—to abandon our current plans.
We secured tickets for the next ferry from Split to Ancona, scheduled for 20:00. After enjoying the refreshing water, we packed our belongings, took a brief shower using the car, and drove to the Split port. My first task was to exchange the electronic tickets for paper ones before boarding what could be described as one of Jadrolinija's least favorable ferries: The Marko Polo. Upon entering the passenger area, I was immediately reminded of my previous journey on this vessel with my friend Hannes in 2004, during our exploration of the Balkans in our British sports cars, returning north to Rijeka aboard this aging ship, which had not improved in appearance over nearly two decades. The restaurant was closed, the bar offered only three drink options, and our cabin lacked a shower, despite our reservation. We resorted to showering with a bottle and left the mess in the restroom, disembarking early the next morning in Ascona. Next time, we should opt for "Moby" instead.
The temperatures in Italy were comparable to those in Croatia, prompting us to take the autostrada north while we could still enjoy the cooler morning air. After a brief stop for an Italian café, a panini, and a restroom break, we soon crossed into Switzerland. Reluctant to return home, we opted to visit Locarno and ventured up the Valle Maggia. Our search for camping spots near Fusio proved unsuccessful, leading us deeper into the valley until we resolved to continue as far as the vehicle would allow. The road improved progressively, revealing stunning locations by the Lago del Sambucco, yet our desire for more drove us higher. Eventually, we reached Lago di Sassuolo, where we discovered a campsite unlike any we had encountered before.
We set up our tent, extended the awning, and began our evening with an Apéro, which transitioned into a delightful meal featuring fine wine, meats, side dishes, and a small dessert from the refrigerator. Contentment enveloped us as we strolled to the upper lake to capture some drone footage. As the sun dipped below the horizon, it cast a gentle glow of yellow, orange, and eventually red and purple across the mountains. We fell asleep beneath the stars visible from our rooftop tent, resolving to return to this enchanting location in the near future.
The following morning, we took our time packing our belongings and drove up the road for the final stretch, observing other campers along the way. The fog and cold weather rendered the atmosphere less inviting, prompting us to descend the valley and head straight home.
Traveling to Croatia in June presents a considerable challenge, as temperatures frequently exceed 30 degrees Celsius. While we appreciated our experience and the opportunity to camp, we plan to visit again during the fall or spring seasons. The remarkable campsite in Valle Maggia may remain accessible for another year or two, until a sign is erected to prevent camping due to the excessive litter left by tourists at this gem. It raises the question of whether our environmental issues stem from a lack of awareness or if they are simply a consequence of an overabundance of people on the planet.
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